“You need to realize you've already rejected tradition by not getting a dark roast coffee. You've embraced modernism,” Hedrick says. “And if you're going to embrace modernism and reject traditionalism, you must always also reject traditional shot parameters.”
But terrific light roast is possible. There are two ways to go.
You can go traditional—changing your dose and ratios a bit but aiming for a cup with intensity and balance. That's what I've been honing for the past year.
But there's also a wilder, weirder path: The turbo shot, also called a gusher. Hedrick, following the results of new scientific research from University of Oregon biochemistry professor Christopher Hendon and others, has gone all in on throwing out the entire traditional espresso rulebook in his pursuit of light roast espresso that’s neither sour nor bitter.
Here are two ways of making light roast espresso, and the results.
How to Make a “Traditional” Light Espresso Shot AccordionItemContainerButton LargeChevron Some of the knee-jerk advice for light roast espresso was just to keep grinding finer and finer and jack up the temperature on your machine in order to get better extraction. Problem is, the finer you grind, the more likely you’ll choke your machine. And also the more likely that water will clog up in places and find a path of least resistance through your coffee puck. Which is to say, it’ll “channel” through only some of the coffee, extracting too much from some parts of your coffee puck while under-extracting from other parts. The results will be intense, bitter, and sour. It’ll taste like those early light roast espressos that put me off of light roast espresso. There's a different path. Instead of pretending light roast is dark roast and going finer and finer, you can instead adjust the amount of coffee and water. Use more coffee and pull longer, for more time—and grind fine but not ridiculously fine. This was the approach used on a recent visit to Sterling Coffee Roasters, one of the few Portland, Oregon, roasters I've found that regularly (and expertly) pulls light roast espresso shots. The shop offered up an excellent, cranberry-fruity light roast Ethiopia Bensa Bombe using this method. My barista let a two-ounce shot drag out for 37 seconds until its fruity-acidic flavors mixed with a little bit of backbone, not to mention the flavors of ferment resulting from natural-process beans. Photograph: Matthew Korfhage This is the classic approach I've arrived at through trial and error, a bit of research, and a lot of conversation with smart baristas: Increase the amount of coffee you use. A darker-roast double shot is often 15 or 18 grams. But going bigger, about 20 grams, can extend the extraction time without having to grind so fine you choke your machine.
A darker-roast double shot is often 15 or 18 grams. But going bigger, about 20 grams, can extend the extraction time without having to grind so fine you choke your machine. Increase the water-to-coffee ratio. Standard espresso is a 1:2 ratio. That means if you use 15 grams of espresso, you’ll aim for 30 grams of espresso in your cup. Longer ratios, often called “lungo,” will also help increase extraction by simply running more water through a certain volume of coffee. I often go as long as 1:3, which is about 60 grams (two ounces) for a 20-gram espresso shot.
Standard espresso is a 1:2 ratio. That means if you use 15 grams of espresso, you’ll aim for 30 grams of espresso in your cup. Longer ratios, often called “lungo,” will also help increase extraction by simply running more water through a certain volume of coffee. I often go as long as 1:3, which is about 60 grams (two ounces) for a 20-gram espresso shot. Go a little longer. It’s a long shot, and a lot of coffee. Don’t worry about the “25 to 30 seconds” you’ve been told is the only way to go. Drift a little longer, maybe into the mid-30s or so. You may find a more balanced shot by the end of it. Photograph: Matthew Korfhage Grind only as finely as you need to, but don’t go crazy. Longer shots, and thicker pucks, will offer resistance to the flow of water, without needing powder-fine espresso dust that ends up creating more unpredictable results.
Longer shots, and thicker pucks, will offer resistance to the flow of water, without needing powder-fine espresso dust that ends up creating more unpredictable results. Spritz your beans. A recent paper by authors including Hendon showed that there's real science behind the idea that spritzing water on coffee beans can help reduce static electricity and clumping, leading to more even extraction.
A recent paper by authors including Hendon showed that there's real science behind the idea that spritzing water on coffee beans can help reduce static electricity and clumping, leading to more even extraction. Look for natural-process beans, not washed. Most modern beans, until recently, were “washed,” which removes all of the coffee fruit before processing, leading to a more predictable result. But lately, a lot of growers in Latin America and Africa have begun to try out natural process beans, fermenting some of the coffee berry sugars or mucilage. Natural processing, or honey and bourbon processing, can lead to more body, more sweetness, and more complexity. It can also lead to less acidity. The result, in light roast espresso, is coffee that's not just more balanced but more nuanced, with added earthy notes that can bind the coffee's flavors into a more organic whole.
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