A South Korean grand master on the art of the perfect soy sauce

In the lush foothills of Damyang county, South Jeolla province, rows of earthenware jars stand under the Korean sky. Inside each clay vessel, a quiet transformation is taking place, one that has been occurring on this land for centuries. This is the domain of Ki Soon-do, South Korea’s sole grand master of traditional aged soy sauce, where patience isn’t just a virtue but the essential ingredient in her craft. “Here, try this,” Ki says, removing the heavy lid from one of the 1,200 pots. She dips a ladle into the dark liquid, releasing a complex aroma. “Smell it first, then taste just a droplet.” The flavour unfolds slowly, first salty, then deeply savoury, with hints of something almost floral. It bears little resemblance to the bottles labelled “soy sauce” in western supermarkets. “Korean traditional soy sauce needs three things: soybeans, water and salt,” Ki explains. “And care and time. Without time, there is no flavour. In modern life, everyone is rushing. But some things cannot ... Read full article.