Honorable Mentions
We've tried a lot of pizza ovens. Here are a few that we liked that didn't quite make the cut.
Photograph: Adrienne So
Ooni Karu, First Edition for $349: Ooni is still selling the previous generation oven of WIRED's top pick, the Karu 2, for about $100 less. Like other Ooni pizza ovens, O.G. Karu is an excellent oven—light, portable, and easy to clean—and WIRED reviewer Adrienne So couldn't stop using the thing after first testing it. Nonetheless the newer Karu 2 heats more evenly, and holds more fuel than the first-generation oven.
Ooni Koda 12 for $399: The original Ooni Koda 12 (8/10, WIRED Recommends) is a mere 21 pounds, making it the most light and portable Koda. Its thin, powder-coated steel shell insulates well enough that it remains cool to the touch, even when the fire is burning. Just slide in the baking stone, screw on the propane tank, and you're ready to go. The door fits 12-inch pizza peels and 10-inch cast-iron skillets. However, you should not store it outside.
Gozney Roccbox for $499: When Adrienne So first reviewed the dual-fuel Gozney Roccbox (5/10, WIRED Review), she praised the fast recovery time that has made the Roccbox popular among pizza pop-up chefs, allowing her to make 10 pies in less than 30 minutes when cooking pizza with propane. That said, few home pizza makers need such throughput, and the 44-pound device is heavier than other competitors. The optional woodbox was oppressively difficult to use, for those who want the ability to cook with fire. But the Gozney's price, previously among the most expensive entrants, now seems pretty reasonable.
Ninja Wood-Fired Oven for $300: If you're looking for a remarkably sturdy and versatile outdoor oven, this is a pretty good pick with a top temperature of 700 degrees. The door is a little sticky which makes baking pizza at high heat a little tricky, but if you want one device that can do everything from smoke a pork shoulder to make muffins to bake a pizza pie, this is your pick.
The Piezano for $99: This TikTok-popular oven is affordable, small, and convenient. It looks a little like a waffle iron, and comes with handy double paddles for easier placement. Astonishingly, its claims of heating the top and bottom elements to 800 degrees Fahrenheit are accurate, and it takes about 15 minutes, which allows for short cook times. But note the heating element at the top doesn't cover the whole surface area, so you have to rotate your pies pretty frequently. Also, opening the top like a waffle maker means that it doesn't retain heat very well. It dropped by 100 to 200 degrees between pies and requires a bit of recovery time.
Also Tested
Photograph: Matthew Korfhage
Current Backyard Model P for $699: No less a TV food personage than Alton Brown has signed on as an endorser of this 1,750-watt electric indoor/outdoor pizza oven, which will heat to 850 degrees Fahrenheit using a standard power outlet. Heat is relatively even across the oven, and it'll get up to top temp in around 30 minutes. But cook settings are constrained to a few preset levels (New-York style, thin crust, Neapolitan, frozen), whose temps and cooking times can be a bit fussy to fiddle with: At least during early months, the app and on-device controls tend to offer more quirks than functionality. Display temp and actual temp don't always match, and its top thermal elements turn on and off like the lights in a David Lynch movie according towhat the company calls a proprietary algorithm. You can make a great pizza on this thing, and you can make it indoors. Current says it plans to add more functions and cooking modes in future updates, and we'll keep testing. But it feels less than fully baked at the moment, especially at its price.
Pizzacraft Pizzaque for $130: This oven is adorable and affordable, and you can stand it in your driveway and cook a good pizza while sitting in your camp chair. However, it just doesn't get as hot or cook as evenly as a better-insulated oven does.
The Best Accessories
Some pizza ovens provide you with proprietary accessories to set you on your pizza path. But I've also found a few extras to be helpful along the way:
A handheld infrared thermometer for $47: Even if the oven has a built-in thermometer, a handheld infrared thermometer is a great way to check the temperature on different areas of the pizza stone. It's also important to make sure the stone has time to reheat after each pizza.
A wooden pizza peel for $34: If you own multiple peels, it's quick and easy to prep one pizza while another is baking. WIRED reviewers Adrienne So and Matthew Korfhage each own several peels, including a useful small turning peel. But for launching, the dough is much less likely to stick on a wooden peel, especially if you first sprinkle on some semolina or flour.
A cast-iron skillet for $25: You can also use a cast-iron pan in your pizza oven to sear steaks or pan-roast broccoli. Lodge's pans work just as well as much more expensive options.
Heat-resistant gloves for $20: That cast iron gets extremely hot, so you'll also need a good pair of mitts. (Even these won't protect your hands for long, so you'll need a place near the oven to set the pan down.)
Fire starters for $20: If you've ever been intimidated by the idea of cooking with wood, don't be! These fire starters make it quick and simple. Just light the end with a match, drop it in the fuel tray, and line up a few oak sticks on top. Be sure to keep your wood dry if you don't want to create a smoke stack in your backyard.